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It
is known that during the Tran dynasty (1225-1400), wealthy men
and women wore a black silk dress with a fine silk collar and
wide-legged pants. Underneath they wore a white dress. The women's
white dress would be longer than the men's. The emperor forbade
the wearing of the colors green, red, scarlet, and yellow. In
1407, during the Ming Occupation, the Chinese forced the Vietnamese
to assimilate to their culture by adopting a short jacket and
pants. Subsequent Vietnamese rulers also forced their subjects
to dress like the Chinese, thinking it more refined and practical.
Over the next few centuries, Vietnamese common dress was subject
to the whims and esthetics of the present emperor. Sometimes the
laws were contradictory. For example, during the fifth year of
the Le dynasty (1665), Emperor Huyen Tong outlawed the wearing
of tunics belted at the waist with pants. Then in 1837, women
were prohibited from wearing skirts by the royal decree of Emperor
Ming Mang. He did not think skirts were beautiful, so his female
subjects were obliged to return to wearing pants. During the reign
of Emperor Tu Duc, official dress was sanctioned by laws. There
was an exact system of dress according to rank. They wore long
tunic robes with large sleeves, wide belt, pants, high boots,
and winged courier hats. The color of the robes, as well as the
variations on the embroidery and brocade fabric indicated the
rank and importance of the wearer. Gold brocade with embroidered
dragons was reserved for the emperor Madarins of high rank wore
purple, while lower-ranking mandarins wore blue.

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