Once people were more accustomed to seeing diverse styles, new dress variations sprung up freely. Towards 1958, Mrs. Ngo Dinh Nhu set a popular trend with her open neck ao dai and little white gloves. Later, the square and heart-shaped necklines, tall Mandarin collars, and raglan cuts also came in vogue. Dresses came in fabrics like silk, crepe, velvet, cotton, and satin. Print and embroidery designs also gained in popularity. During the 1960s, dresses inspired by western pop art fashions were of multi-colored panels. In the 1970s, dresses in tie-dyed prints and hand-painted florals were seen among the young women.

However, after 1975, the new government ordered everyone to wear the basic work outfit of buttoned top and pants. The ao dai receded into the background, making appearances only at family gatherings and special occasions.

As Communist policy opened to more foreign relations, the ao dai reenerged as a national symbol. In the late 1980s, beauty pageants began taking place throughout the country. The 1989 ao dai beauty pageant (Hoa Hau Ao Dai '89) in Saigon drew an audience of 16,000 people. With only an outside. In September 1995, the Vietnamese ao dai was given tribute abroad when Truong Quynh Mai 21, won the prize for the best traditional costume at the Miss International 10,000 maximum capacity for the auditorium 6,000 people were left anxiously waiting 1995 Pageant in Tokyo.